A visit to the Ghibli Museum

Sunday 15th - You don't have to be an anime (Japanese animation) fan to have heard of Japanese animation house Studio Ghibli. Even if the name doesn't ring a bell then one of their films might do it. Their 2001 film "Spirited Away" won an Oscar for Best Animated Feature. But if you are an anime fan then this is a must-see stop in Tokyo if you ever get the chance.

Those expecting a Disneyland or Universal Studios scale site should be forewarned, as it isn't huge; but what it lacks in size it balances out with charm and, yes, magic. The setting helps - on the edge of a woodland (Mitaka Forest) and the design, by Studio Ghibli founder (and director of many of their classic films) Hayao Miyazaki, both ensuring that even the most tired parent (or child!) should perk up immediately upon first glimpsing it.

The museum's motto is "Let's become lost children together" and only the stoniest of heart could fail to feel a child-like sense of adventure, exploration, fascination or event excitement at times when travelling through the place. The museum prides itself on there being no set route to seeing the exhibits (something even more exceptional here in Japan than elsewhere) and as you step over the threshold, you enter what looks like a wealthy eccentric's quirky mansion. There is a main 'reception' room with doors and tunnels, a spiral staircase and a Victorian-style see-through elevator all tempting you to explore. Which we did - with some glee I might add!

Permanent and changing exhibitions celebrate all films Ghibli and one of the current temporary ones - the Cat Bus rooms (featuring a full-sized version of the memorable cat bus from their classic 1988 film "My Neighbor Totoro") are a joy. In one room young children are allowed to climb inside (and on top of if they wish!) the bus, whilst in the other their parents can sit, in slightly a more refined, dare one say 'adult' manner, inside a sectional mock up of the orange-furred vehicle.

There's a cute, small cinema inside showing short films that are apparently exclusively shown at the cinema. We caught "Chuzumo" (or Mouse Sumo!) which was perfect having only just seen the real thing for the first time the day before. A funny film that sumo fans would appreciate for its attention to detail on the trappings of the ceremony around the sport.

Personal highlight for me though was a life-sized state of one of the robots from "Laputa: Castle In The Sky" - possibly my favourite Miyazaki-directed Ghibli film (and the studio's first in 1986). This stands guard atop a garden on the roof of the museum, which is accessible through another of those spiral metal staircases. Fortunately, the weather on the day we visited was perfect Japanese winter weather - that is bright sunshine, blue skies and chilly. I couldn't resist having my photo taken below the protective giant. Even the often reluctant wife Yuko posed for a commorative snapshot. It also looks great from the exit gates of teh museum where it can be viewed as perhaps best intended - like a sentinal watching over - as in the film.

The first room accessible from the entrance is also worthy of special mention as it is a fine example of the entire museum's genuine love of the magical potential for film and indeed of the mechanics of the artform itself. In a darkened gallery you can see (among other exhibits) zeotropes, a stroboscope and 35mm film running through a clear projector showing film clips and a short 'history of evolution' animation by the studio. Even very young children seemed captivated by the exhibits in this room. Only the volume of visitors in the room at the time we visited was a detraction from lingering longer than we did.

If you're thinking of going its necessary to plan in advance due to the demand for tickets. To the museum's credit, they ration tickets each day and (like the extremely popular exhibitions at more conventional big-city art galleries) tickets only permit access during a fix two hour (I think it was) time window. So, don't be late - or you'll be politely advised (as only the Japanese can do) that you have most unfortunately missed your opportunity. Curiously, buying tickets to the Ghibli Museum from outside Japan is easier than inside the country. Outside you should be able to get through travel agents on request (you'll have to specify your preferred date and time). Alternatively, if you live in Japan, or do as we did and ask willing relatives to assist you, you'll need to book and then arrange to collect your tickets from a Lawson (convenience) store. If you too have helpful relatives resident in Japan then they can then also post you the tickets in advance of leaving your home country so that you have them with you on arrival in Tokyo if your relatives don't live in the city. ;-)