Friday 30 November 2012
Learning Japanese
It's been some 15 years or so since I last had Japanese lessons. Currently downloading Japanese fonts for Adobe reader. Time to get back to learning me thinks...
Friday 14 September 2012
Not A "Falling Down" Moment
In Joel Schumacher's 1993 film "Falling Down" Michael Douglas portrays an unemployed defense worker who, frustrated with the various flaws he sees in society, begins to psychotically and violently lash out against them. This is triggered in part by a disgusting-looking hamburger he is served in a burger bar bearing no resemblance to the tantilising photo on the menu board.
In Japan that would never happen. At least not in any chain restaurant. In fact, I think that most of the time the real thing actually looks better than the menu image! The menu images are often graphics rather than photographs. Which is rather ironic when you think about it. Why not photograph the product when they look this good in reality?! Also tastes great too. ;-)
Here's the scene from "Falling Down"...
The only natural conclusion we can draw from this evidence is:- if you get your burgers right, society will be a safer place for us all.
Wednesday 15 August 2012
Tetra Mound at Moerenuma Park
The Moerenuma Park in Sapporo, Hokkaido, is possibly the most incredible and breathtaking municipal park in Japan.
Designed by artist Isamu Noguchi, the vast park is on the outskirts of Sapporo, transforming what was a waste treatment area into one of the most striking landscapes I have ever seen. There are several massive installations like this in the park, but I've chosen this photo of the Tetra Mound as my first image to post here.
Its scale (13 meters high) is discernable from the two figures seen below the point of the triangular pyramid. These were two teenagers skateboarding around the sculpture. Not strictly permitted, but I can't say I blame them. As skate park locations go this has to be among the best on the planet!
(Geek footnote: Anyone who remembers the 1984 Lucasfilm video game Ballblazer which featured a futurisrtic sports playing field of huge checkerboards will probably react like I did - which was like being *inside* the videogame on the field of play. A very surreal experience.)
Official Moerenuma Park website (in English): http://www.sapporo-park.or.jp/moere/english.php
Wikipedia entry for Ballblazer video game: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballblazer
Thursday 9 August 2012
Monday 6 August 2012
A thousand words?
There's a well-known saying that says a picture is worth a thousand words.
In blogging terms a thousand words is a pretty long post by most standards. A good number of my posts are several hundred words in length. I never focus on how long a post is, rather what it is I want to share or say. Sometimes though a picture is all you need. (Indeed, some blogs seem to comprise of picture posts only. Surely a photo-based website instead of a blogging platform is a more natural home for that kind of sharing?)
Anyhow, enough words for now. Over the coming weeks I'll be sharing some of my favourite photographs of Japan. They're not always technically the finest, more that they convey something special about Japan that means a lot to me. I hope you enjoy them. If you do, please post a comment to let me know. :-)
Temple garden, Sado-ga-shima, May 2012
In blogging terms a thousand words is a pretty long post by most standards. A good number of my posts are several hundred words in length. I never focus on how long a post is, rather what it is I want to share or say. Sometimes though a picture is all you need. (Indeed, some blogs seem to comprise of picture posts only. Surely a photo-based website instead of a blogging platform is a more natural home for that kind of sharing?)
Anyhow, enough words for now. Over the coming weeks I'll be sharing some of my favourite photographs of Japan. They're not always technically the finest, more that they convey something special about Japan that means a lot to me. I hope you enjoy them. If you do, please post a comment to let me know. :-)
Temple garden, Sado-ga-shima, May 2012
Thursday 12 July 2012
Local Heroes: Rios Bakery & Cafe, Ashiya, Hyogo
One thing about Japan I love is the amount of small, self-owned, mom and pop and family-run small business there are everywhere you go. Whether it is in the middle of Tokyo or in the wilds of Hokkaido (or, more recently, Sado-ga-shima), there are modest, but beautiful sake breweries, cafes, clothes shops, tofu producers, second hand records stores, electrical shops, etc. The fact that Japan has officially been in recession for the last couple of decades still (despite business closures) hasn't managed to kill of this wonderful aspect of life in the country.
Rios Bakery and Cafe is one of those owner operated businesses that continue to pop up. Rios (named after the owner apparently) has the advantage of being found in Ashiya City, the wealthiest city in the whole of Japan. So, whilst it possibly isn't typical of your average SME, for me it is a fine example. I forget what it was before, but noticed the previous store had closed and was being refurbished. It reopened under its new guise last year. My mother-in-law sensitive to my love of bread (and particularly toast in the morning!) had been buying freshly baked bread from Rios each time we visited. It was lovely. To be honest, bread in Japan is still a relative novelty (compared with England where it is a staple of the diet any hour of the day) and good bread in Japan isn't everywhere.
It was only when we were in Ashiya in May that we made a point of popping in there for a late breakfast one mid-morning. It lived up to promise of its beautifully-designed exterior. The coffee was spot-on made in front of us and the bread and pastries a rare treat. So I decided to take a few photographs of Rio and his lovely cafe to celebrate the millions of small, independent businesses across the country that add so much to the social fabric (and economy) of Japan. I hope you enjoy the pictures and maybe you could visit Rio in his cafe one day too?
Rios Bakery and Cafe is one of those owner operated businesses that continue to pop up. Rios (named after the owner apparently) has the advantage of being found in Ashiya City, the wealthiest city in the whole of Japan. So, whilst it possibly isn't typical of your average SME, for me it is a fine example. I forget what it was before, but noticed the previous store had closed and was being refurbished. It reopened under its new guise last year. My mother-in-law sensitive to my love of bread (and particularly toast in the morning!) had been buying freshly baked bread from Rios each time we visited. It was lovely. To be honest, bread in Japan is still a relative novelty (compared with England where it is a staple of the diet any hour of the day) and good bread in Japan isn't everywhere.
It was only when we were in Ashiya in May that we made a point of popping in there for a late breakfast one mid-morning. It lived up to promise of its beautifully-designed exterior. The coffee was spot-on made in front of us and the bread and pastries a rare treat. So I decided to take a few photographs of Rio and his lovely cafe to celebrate the millions of small, independent businesses across the country that add so much to the social fabric (and economy) of Japan. I hope you enjoy the pictures and maybe you could visit Rio in his cafe one day too?
Saturday 2 June 2012
Isolated Sado-ga-shima
Sado was a tad more isolated than I anticipated. So no internet in either of our hotels and left mobile back in Kobe, so couldn't update as much as intended. Rest assured though, I managed to drain two camera batteries in 3 days, so there's plenty of documentary evidence to post when I get the chance.
Only other techno glitch is that the adapters we packed don't work with my laptop (duh!). So posting (particularly photos) will be a tad limited for a little while. Still, the isolation in Sado was worth it. Way better than I anticipated and our first ryokan (hotel) was in the most idyllic setting. More to follow!
Only other techno glitch is that the adapters we packed don't work with my laptop (duh!). So posting (particularly photos) will be a tad limited for a little while. Still, the isolation in Sado was worth it. Way better than I anticipated and our first ryokan (hotel) was in the most idyllic setting. More to follow!
Monday 28 May 2012
Last Plane To Kansai
As an habitual (if moderate) control freak, and not one to save pennies only to experience stress or hassle, flying standby doesn't come naturally to me. Or rather, it didn't. Let me explain...
Having only 11 days on this latest trip to Japan meant if we wanted to do all the things we'd like to (and why not?) that there'd be a few times when we'd be cutting timing between activities (and locations) a bit fine. Moreover, to help keep travel costs low (and thus keep spending money high) we opted to fly standby. For those unfamiliar, standby is when you have booked a seat but your seat isn't confirmed until you are at the departure lounge and ready to fly... or not as luck might have it.
Airlines always want to fill the maximum number of seats they have as possible. Moreover, passengers, tending to be human beings, experience all sorts of trials and tribulations, changed plans and minds, meaning a number of 'confirmed passengers' are actually only a statistical probability. They are only ever a fact, an actual passenger, when they go through the gate and board the flight. When you buy a standby ticket you'll either be fortunate enough to be allocated an unsold 'regular' seat or, somewhat more risky and (literally) last-minute, if a plane is full (or even over-booked), but there are 'no-shows' (that is people who just don't turn up), then that is when the intrepid standbyer gets a look in.
Airlines always want to fill the maximum number of seats they have as possible. Moreover, passengers, tending to be human beings, experience all sorts of trials and tribulations, changed plans and minds, meaning a number of 'confirmed passengers' are actually only a statistical probability. They are only ever a fact, an actual passenger, when they go through the gate and board the flight. When you buy a standby ticket you'll either be fortunate enough to be allocated an unsold 'regular' seat or, somewhat more risky and (literally) last-minute, if a plane is full (or even over-booked), but there are 'no-shows' (that is people who just don't turn up), then that is when the intrepid standbyer gets a look in.
Just how last minute, Yuko and I discovered for ourselves last night. Starting in Tokyo, we had standby tickets for an internal flight from Haneda airport to Kobe. We had forwarded our luggage from our hotel to home in Kobe that morning, meaning we were unencumbered and could be fleet of foot. Since we'd spent as much time as possible in the early evening at a friend's club in Shibuya, we had to catch a train (actually two) to get out to Haneda airport in the hope we could get on a late flight over to the Kansai region. The good news is that Japan's domestic airlines being as developed as they are meant theoretically we could aim for any of three airports: Kobe, Kansai International, or Itami (aka Osaka International airport)
The last flights available out of Tokyo on a Sunday evening were actually:
20:15 to Kobe
20:20 to Kansai International
21:00 to Kansai International
We left the club in Shibuya at 18:45 and arrived at Handea airport at 19:45 – just 30 minutes before our first option. The travel geek in me wanted it to be the first as I'd never used Kobe airport. It felt like ticking another one off was a bit like a badge of achievement (if not exactly honour). Our rough plan was that if, worst case scenario, we couldn't get two seats out tonight then we'd crash in a capsule hotel.
When using standby it is important to follow procedure. The most important thing is to get 'short-listed'. That means getting your names on the list of standbys hoping to get a seat on the next flight. In this regard,standby is like the best of nightclubs: 'If your name isn't on the list then you ain't getting in (or on!)'. Slots on this name list are allocate strictly on a first-come, first-served basis. We got short-listed for the three Kansai flights. Meaning, if there was no space on the first, then you are bumped to the next, and the next until your options run out. The next step was to clear security and go through to the departure gates, where we'd go up to Gate 58 where the 20:15 to Kobe was boarding. Kobe being a relatively small internal airport meant that the Kobe plane was a small one, meaning the chances of us getting on were slim at best.
Moreover, it was clear that several other people had the same idea as us. Each holding a standby order number for each consecutive flight. On each of our order numbers was the time that any available standby seats would be announced. For the 20:15 flight the time was 20:05. The departure gate looked busy. There was a steady stream of passengers boarding the flight. Then, at the allotted time, 20:05, one of the ANA desk staff picked up the PA microphone and read out the first numbers. The two lucky individuals, brandishing their standby numbers ran up to the desk. A quick flurry of paperwork and they were ushered on-board. Moments later, the same ANA staff made another announcement. It wasn't the one we were hoping for. “Ladies and Gentlemen, there are no more available seats on this flight.” Upon hearing this we, and several others about turned, and quickly jogged to Gate 59 for the impending 20:20 departure.
Standby announcement time here was 20:10. It was already 20:10 when we got there. As this was the penultimate flight to Kansai International (a much bigger airport) the plane would be larger, possibly presenting a better chance. The departure gate was packed. Again, even with the most optimistic outlook, the signs were not promising. As the gate staff were already well into boarding the confirmed passengers, there was a more frantic air around us standbyers. Here, the usual Japanese reserve and decorum was tangibly breaking down. Instead of waiting for the appropriate PA announcement, instantly, a couple of others waiving their number vouchers, rushed up to the desk asking about the viability of joining those currently beeping their way through. Two ANA staff held their polite manner (in spite of the clear breach or protocol) and advised something along the lines of the familiar 'It's possible but there is no guarantee'.
As the departure lounge thinned out, the procedure experienced five minutes earlier was repeated. This time, two staff shared the good news announcements. A couple of young office lady types were clearly delighted to be joining the flight. A middle-aged business man was next up; then a young couple. Within a few, blurry moments the bad news came: 'No more room at the inn'.
This was getting desperate, yet having psyched myself up for the idea of not actually departing this evening and, instead, viewing the prospect of having to slot into a capsule (for the first time) as a potentially new experience I found myself to be uncharacteristically relaxed about the whole thing.
We had what felt like ages until we needed to be at Gate 60 for our last option – a full thirty minutes until the 20:45 announcement. We secured a seat close to the ticket barrier at the gate and within viewing distance of a demonstration LG television – showing a volleyball match between Japan and another country I couldn't confidently identify, but judging by their flag I think was Kazakhstan. (The Japanese team won and in doing so secured their place in the 2012 London Olympics. I sensed a vague analogy to our own circumstance in there somewhere.) We could at least distract ourselves for the final countdown.
My demeanour was (still) surprisingly chilled. I must be getting used to this kind of travel. Or perhaps the off-kilter body clock (21:00 Japan time would be 13:00 back home) was involuntarily slowing down my heart rate. At 20:45 the PA system crackled into life for perhaps the last time this evening. Would we be flying home tonight, or would this be an announcement that a search for a nearby capsule hotel was about to begin another leg in our journey? Two ladies squealed with glee when their numbers were read out. The regular passengers rapidly working their way through the gate casting them slightly confused/slightly disapproving glances. Oddly, having been through the same procedure twice before in the last 50 minutes, I found myself a somewhat distanced observer, rather than an active participant. I was trying to visualise exactly what a 'First Class' capsule room actually looked like (they are large enough for two) when Yuko turned to me with a gasp of “Ah!”... ladies and gentlemen, we were getting on board the last plane to Kansai.
I wouldn't recommend standby tickets to uber control freaks or those with an awful lot of money, prepared to walk up and pay through the nose for a last minute Premium Class seat that they could enjoy for the best part of 60 minutes. For those on a budget, the chilled type, or those flexible enough not to be overly concerned if they do not fly on their flight of first choice and who want to leverage options to keep day-to-day spending money at a maximum (like us) then they can be terrific value - easily a quarter of what you'd usually pay. What's more, the use of them can be a mini-adventure in its own right.
My demeanour was (still) surprisingly chilled. I must be getting used to this kind of travel. Or perhaps the off-kilter body clock (21:00 Japan time would be 13:00 back home) was involuntarily slowing down my heart rate. At 20:45 the PA system crackled into life for perhaps the last time this evening. Would we be flying home tonight, or would this be an announcement that a search for a nearby capsule hotel was about to begin another leg in our journey? Two ladies squealed with glee when their numbers were read out. The regular passengers rapidly working their way through the gate casting them slightly confused/slightly disapproving glances. Oddly, having been through the same procedure twice before in the last 50 minutes, I found myself a somewhat distanced observer, rather than an active participant. I was trying to visualise exactly what a 'First Class' capsule room actually looked like (they are large enough for two) when Yuko turned to me with a gasp of “Ah!”... ladies and gentlemen, we were getting on board the last plane to Kansai.
I wouldn't recommend standby tickets to uber control freaks or those with an awful lot of money, prepared to walk up and pay through the nose for a last minute Premium Class seat that they could enjoy for the best part of 60 minutes. For those on a budget, the chilled type, or those flexible enough not to be overly concerned if they do not fly on their flight of first choice and who want to leverage options to keep day-to-day spending money at a maximum (like us) then they can be terrific value - easily a quarter of what you'd usually pay. What's more, the use of them can be a mini-adventure in its own right.
Sunday 27 May 2012
Shibuya Mute Night is Calling
We're off to a Mute Night club in Shibuya tomorrow which a friend has organised and is DJ-ing at.
If you happen to be in the neighbourhood and you're reading this (a bit of a stretch I know!) then look out for a handsome English gaijin ;-) and come and say "Hello". Ashita matane...
If you happen to be in the neighbourhood and you're reading this (a bit of a stretch I know!) then look out for a handsome English gaijin ;-) and come and say "Hello". Ashita matane...
Street View 4am
This was the view from our room on the 10th floor of the Hotel Arietta near Gotanda at 4am this morning. I had one of those 'suddenly alert' jetlag moments you sometimes get at unexpected times of the day (or night). I couldn't sleep for about an hour so instead of fighting it, I took to soaking up the early morning atmosphere outside our window. Humid and surprisingly quiet.
Saturday 26 May 2012
Fresh Land Vegi Full
Grocery store in Gotanda, Tokyo.
Love the way the Japanese use the English language. Always puts a smile on my face - making everyday life that bit more pleasant. :-)
Blogstream of Consciousness
Have just checked into our Tokyo hotel and having having purchased a new Samsung netbook recently, logging on for quick updates should be easier this time around. So without much concern for profundity I'll be blogging a stream of random thoughts, photos and maybe a clip or two throughout this visit.
Hold on to you hat, it's gonna be a fun ride! :-)
So, without further ado, here's a photo of the helpful Tokyo subway map. ;-)
Hold on to you hat, it's gonna be a fun ride! :-)
So, without further ado, here's a photo of the helpful Tokyo subway map. ;-)
Tuesday 15 May 2012
Sado Island, Mute Night in Shibuya, Instant Noodles and Kobe
OK, it's official - we're off to Japan for our next visit in a couple of weeks
This time around, the main reason for going at this particular time is to visit Sado Island before it gets too hot and humid in high June. Sado lies in the Sea of Japan, north of the main island Honshu. Our itinerary will have us arrive in Tokyo and spend a few days there, before flying over to Itami airport (outside Osaka) for our usual return home to nearby Kobe. Here we will stay with family and will act as our base for the rest of our trip.
A DJ friend is running a Mute Records club in Shibuya, Tokyo so we have booked a hotel nearby (with a great half-price deal via their Facebook page!) so we can squeeze that into our fairly tight schedule before we head over to Kobe.
In January, I visited the Disaster Reduction and Human Rennovation Institute in Kobe. It documents and commemorates the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995 when more than 6,400 people were killed. I'd never been before and it was a sobering and yet fascinating way to spend a few hours (few can turn tragedy into an opportunity to learn like the Japanese). A visit there if you are ever in Kobe is thoroughly recommended. It was also in a part of Kobe I had never visited before, Nada, which I enjoyed wandering around. It got me thinking I should spend more time exploring the different districts of Kobe, rather than spending so much time thinking about consuming in Muji and Tokyu Hands! ;-) I haven't yet planned where I'll go this time. But I'm keen to revisit Ikuta Shrine - where my wife and I got married a decade ago - to check out the forest behind it.I might also go visit Kobe Fashion Museum on Rokko Island. I'm not into fashion and probably won't go inside. It's the arcitecture of the building I'm interested in. The Rough Guide to Japan describes it as looking like a docked Starship Enterprise (which from the photos I've seen it does). Getting there also means I get to ride on the Rokko line monorail - which still gives me a kind of retro-future, big kid thrill. ;-)
One thing we have planned (and booked in advance as it is necessary to get a specific day and time) is a visit to the Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Noodle Museum in Osaka. I'm not joking! Lots of big name Japanese companies offer this kind of museum/factory tour, which usually end with you getting to sample some of the produce for free. (I first did it many years back with the Asahi Brewery - concluding with free beer tasting - which was rather nice.) Ando was the inventor of instant noodles. Here, you get to make your very own, unique Cup Noodle, complete right down to designing the packaging, which you get to take home with you. Cannot wait!
This time around, the main reason for going at this particular time is to visit Sado Island before it gets too hot and humid in high June. Sado lies in the Sea of Japan, north of the main island Honshu. Our itinerary will have us arrive in Tokyo and spend a few days there, before flying over to Itami airport (outside Osaka) for our usual return home to nearby Kobe. Here we will stay with family and will act as our base for the rest of our trip.
A DJ friend is running a Mute Records club in Shibuya, Tokyo so we have booked a hotel nearby (with a great half-price deal via their Facebook page!) so we can squeeze that into our fairly tight schedule before we head over to Kobe.
In January, I visited the Disaster Reduction and Human Rennovation Institute in Kobe. It documents and commemorates the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995 when more than 6,400 people were killed. I'd never been before and it was a sobering and yet fascinating way to spend a few hours (few can turn tragedy into an opportunity to learn like the Japanese). A visit there if you are ever in Kobe is thoroughly recommended. It was also in a part of Kobe I had never visited before, Nada, which I enjoyed wandering around. It got me thinking I should spend more time exploring the different districts of Kobe, rather than spending so much time thinking about consuming in Muji and Tokyu Hands! ;-) I haven't yet planned where I'll go this time. But I'm keen to revisit Ikuta Shrine - where my wife and I got married a decade ago - to check out the forest behind it.I might also go visit Kobe Fashion Museum on Rokko Island. I'm not into fashion and probably won't go inside. It's the arcitecture of the building I'm interested in. The Rough Guide to Japan describes it as looking like a docked Starship Enterprise (which from the photos I've seen it does). Getting there also means I get to ride on the Rokko line monorail - which still gives me a kind of retro-future, big kid thrill. ;-)
One thing we have planned (and booked in advance as it is necessary to get a specific day and time) is a visit to the Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Noodle Museum in Osaka. I'm not joking! Lots of big name Japanese companies offer this kind of museum/factory tour, which usually end with you getting to sample some of the produce for free. (I first did it many years back with the Asahi Brewery - concluding with free beer tasting - which was rather nice.) Ando was the inventor of instant noodles. Here, you get to make your very own, unique Cup Noodle, complete right down to designing the packaging, which you get to take home with you. Cannot wait!
Thursday 26 April 2012
Thursday 12 April 2012
Sunday 1 April 2012
Wot!? No e-book readers!?
The Japanese are
well-known for their insatiable appetite for reading; whether it be
newspapers, manga (comic books), an infinate variety of specialist
magazines or novels. Everywhere you go, morning, day, or night,
you’ll see the Japanese reading in public. The Japanese are also
well-known for their love of technology. So, you’d think a gadget
that combines these two national passions, such as e-book readers,
would be as popular as breathing. But, remarkably, you’d be wrong.
As a frequent user of
trains into London (and around it via the underground once inside),
not a single day goes by without seeing someone using an e-reader.
Indeed, randomly get on any tube train around rush hour and you’ll
regularly see more e-books than traditional books being read.
Not so in Japan. Not even in the capital Tokyo. During our last stay
in Japan, which included time spent in Tokyo, Osaka and many, many
train journeys (including on the shinkansen bullet trains), as well
as internal flights, not once did I see someone using an
e-reader. Not once! More than two weeks spent in the country globally
recognised as one of the most technologically advanced, and not a
single e-reader to be found.
Japanese
electronics/technology giant Sony was one of the first to utilise
‘e-ink’ technology (the clever tech that means reading from an
e-reader screen is as close to reading print on paper) and creator of
one of the first readers to come to the global mass market with its
Sony Librie way back in 2004. (Though, sales of Amazon’s Kindle
e–reader have since eclipsed those of Sony – the Kindle
accounting for 45%-50% of all e-reader sales in 2010 according to
Gartner). So why didn’t I see a single e-reader in Japan?
For all their love of
high-tech, the Japanese remain a traditional race at heart. They also
manage to sustain social, cultural and economic trends at a national
level that most other countries (certainly in the West) would never
be able to pull off. So, if, because of some deeply-ingrained reason,
they prefer Yahoo!’s services over Google’s, or clamshell mobiles
over smartphones, or print over digital text, then they’ll see
nothing unusual or surprising in that. They may, in their own time
(and on their own terms) gradually decide, often over a period of
many years, that they will switch from clamshells to smartphones (as
is beginning to happen now). But it will be how and when they choose. Their equal love of
print, in the forms listed above, seems as strong as ever it was.
I’ll be keeping a
keen eye open on our next visit to see if I can spot my first
e-reader in Japan. When I do, I might just step over the usual Japanese social reserve and tell the owner that they are the very first native e-reader user I have ever seen! If, in the meantime, you have a theory as to why I
didn't see a single e-reader then please do share your thoughts...
Wednesday 14 March 2012
Hmm... sneaky early summer trip... maybe?
Yuko's parents (most particularly her father) have said they would like to visit Sado island around June time. Yuko recently had an unexpected short trip for business in Tokyo (just 2 weeks after we returned from our last stay at the end of January!) - which she extended to a week so she could spend time with family and friends in Kobe. I think Yuko's parent's, seeing that it is actually possible to do a short trip (in spite of the circa 6,000miles/10,000km between Japan and the UK!), began thinking that asking us to consider visiting them sooner than we had planned might actually be possible.
Fitting it in around the day job is likely to be the biggest challenge. Also, to save on using up too much holiday I immediately thought of planing the trip to coincide with the one-off two day public holiday in early June on account of the Queen's Golden Jubilee (God bless her!). Doing so would give us 4 days (including one weekend) without having to use up any holiday. Problem is work is busy in the run up to mid June, so unless we can squeeze 7-10 days in at the end of May (which would mean missing the Gary Numan gig on 1st June I've already got a ticket for!) I'm not sure we can pull it of then. Later in June would logistically be more straightforward work wise, but the temperature, and more particularly the humidity (which neither of us are fond of), rises rapidly as each week in June passes.
If we do manage to squeeze in a short break I'd love to go to Sado island as it is the home to the Kodo drummers - of whom I'm a big fan. Who knows? Maybe it won't be possible. But like a lot of things in life one would like to experience - the more you think about it, the more you manage to find ways to prioritise, change plans, etc to make the possibility of it happening more likely. Watch this space...
Fitting it in around the day job is likely to be the biggest challenge. Also, to save on using up too much holiday I immediately thought of planing the trip to coincide with the one-off two day public holiday in early June on account of the Queen's Golden Jubilee (God bless her!). Doing so would give us 4 days (including one weekend) without having to use up any holiday. Problem is work is busy in the run up to mid June, so unless we can squeeze 7-10 days in at the end of May (which would mean missing the Gary Numan gig on 1st June I've already got a ticket for!) I'm not sure we can pull it of then. Later in June would logistically be more straightforward work wise, but the temperature, and more particularly the humidity (which neither of us are fond of), rises rapidly as each week in June passes.
If we do manage to squeeze in a short break I'd love to go to Sado island as it is the home to the Kodo drummers - of whom I'm a big fan. Who knows? Maybe it won't be possible. But like a lot of things in life one would like to experience - the more you think about it, the more you manage to find ways to prioritise, change plans, etc to make the possibility of it happening more likely. Watch this space...
Friday 9 March 2012
Strolling around Nara
Wednesday 18th
– Nara
Guide books and
Wikipedia will tell you that Nara used to be the capital of Japan a
long time ago. Partly as a consequence of that, what distinguishes it
today from all the other Japanese cities worth visiting is the park
at the city’s heart. The fact that this extensive park is home to
hundreds of roaming semi-wild deer is also pretty special.
If you’re visiting
Nara for the first time all the guides will tell you to check out the
ancient temples – and you should! They’re really cool. The
Tōdai-ji building alone is worth the trip. Depending on where
you want to accept your facts, it’s the biggest wooden building
still standing in the world and the oldest man-made wooden building
still standing. Though the latter claim should be taken with a pinch
of salt since Japan is very adept (and well-known for) ‘restoring’
old buildings and managing to make then still look originally
ancient! If planned well, and you’re being selective, you can do
the major temple sites, the park and the Nara National Museum -
housed in a series of individually distinctive buildings.
I’ve been to Nara a
few times, most often as a day trip from Kobe. For me, this year’s
trip was a last minute decision. Right up until the morning of the
day I was going to spend the day strolling around Osaka, but when I
got up and saw the classic, beautiful Japanese winter day that was
outside (perfect blue sky, brilliant sunshine and crisp cold air), I
knew I had to change plans and join Yuko and her friends Miho (with
her two-year old daughter Erika) and Noriko in Nara.
Having done the major
'must-do's before, today was simply about relaxing, with no real
plan; other than just to wander from the Kintetsu rail line station.
JR also have a station in the city centre. As of last year private
regional railway Hanshin began running a direct train from Kobe to
Nara (terminating at the central Kintetsu-Nara station), meaning no
change at Osaka as you would still need with either JR or Kintetsu.
A 15 minute stroll
takes you quickly away from the familiar clamour, bustle and bright
colours of the covered streets and arcades, into Nara-machi - a
traditional part of the city, which provides plenty of well-preserved
nostalgia. We stopped for lunch at a great little restaurant. Seating
options for both Western-style (with table and chairs) or Japanese
(kick off shoes, no chairs and on the floor) are offered, as was a
tempting set menu of various curries. I opted for the chicken and
spinach – which came up alarmingly totally deep green but tasted
lovely - if you’re a spinach fan that is! Having filled ourselves
sufficiently, the five of us continued on our way.
If you’ve even been
fortunate enough to visit an old, traditional Japanese town, you’ll
know just how easy it is to feel as though you’ve stepped back in
time. The old wooden houses and stores in these places look virtually
unchanged from when they would have first been built. Only the
omnipresent, array of jumbled electricity cables (and occasional
delivery moped zipping past) belying the fact that you are still in
the present day. We headed for a traditional sweet shop where,
apparently, an order had been placed in advance, so that when we
arrived it was waiting for us. A classic mom & pop set-up of
which there remain millions all over the country. A friendly elderly
couple, who seemed delighted to see us (though we were undoubtedly
just a few following many other knowledgeable native tourists who had
also done their homework). They took a shine to cute little Erika and
insisted on handing her a small presentation bag of sweets just for
her. Although mum politely said it wasn’t necessary (or expected),
they insisted. A genuinely nice touch.
We continued our stroll
to the edge of the old-town district which is starkly brought back to
the present by rising up a modest hill to a major ring road. A couple
of doors down to the left though was a modest yet stylish café
called Miriam - after its owner. It is run by an ex-pat Frenchwoman
who freshly grinds the coffee beans (from a decent global selection
including Brazilian, Cuban, Argentinian and Javanese) and hand makes
the curry from scratch – as we could all smell with glee (in spite
of having sampled our own little more than an hour before). Fortified
further by a strong black coffee (I opted for the Brazilian which was
deep and rich) and a gorgeous but too petite chocolate cake, we left
the atmospheric cabin, turned back to the left and followed the ring
road for a 100 metres to the edge of Nara Park. Where we soon caught
our first glimpse of the native deer.
As the twilight gently
descended and daylight was replaced by dusk we sauntered around the
park and were rapidly joined by one especially bold (and hungry)
female deer. Our attempts at trying to instil some sense of patience
in the beast to hand feed it were met with ignorant impatience, with
her forcing her nose into our bags and grabbing supper for
herself!With the light fading and the desire to head back to Kobe
before it got too late. We headed out of the park. Just as we did so
a parade of deer, slowly walking one behind the other, casually
walked towards us. Our paths literally crossed and they calmly passed
us by like a group of schoolchildren heading home. I grabbed my
camera just in time to capture them (still and moving) heading off
into the distance, literally disappearing into the darkness.
A wonderfully memorable
end to another pleasurable day in Japan.
Saturday 25 February 2012
5 Centimeters Per Second - moving
Watched this last night. It doesn't really work as a feature film (it's three connected
short stories that last just 60 mins in total) but it captures the
beauty of the Japanese countryside and the anguish of youthful love
brilliantly. The first chapter for me is the stand out. Had tears in
my eyes at the end of that section. The interview with the director
on the DVD is surprisingly insightful and frank for a Japanese
production. Worth seeing.
Monday 23 January 2012
Thursday 19 January 2012
A visit to the Ghibli Museum
Sunday 15th - You don't have to be an anime (Japanese animation) fan to have heard of Japanese animation house Studio Ghibli. Even if the name doesn't ring a bell then one of their films might do it. Their 2001 film "Spirited Away" won an Oscar for Best Animated Feature. But if you are an anime fan then this is a must-see stop in Tokyo if you ever get the chance.
Those expecting a Disneyland or Universal Studios scale site should be forewarned, as it isn't huge; but what it lacks in size it balances out with charm and, yes, magic. The setting helps - on the edge of a woodland (Mitaka Forest) and the design, by Studio Ghibli founder (and director of many of their classic films) Hayao Miyazaki, both ensuring that even the most tired parent (or child!) should perk up immediately upon first glimpsing it.
The museum's motto is "Let's become lost children together" and only the stoniest of heart could fail to feel a child-like sense of adventure, exploration, fascination or event excitement at times when travelling through the place. The museum prides itself on there being no set route to seeing the exhibits (something even more exceptional here in Japan than elsewhere) and as you step over the threshold, you enter what looks like a wealthy eccentric's quirky mansion. There is a main 'reception' room with doors and tunnels, a spiral staircase and a Victorian-style see-through elevator all tempting you to explore. Which we did - with some glee I might add!
Permanent and changing exhibitions celebrate all films Ghibli and one of the current temporary ones - the Cat Bus rooms (featuring a full-sized version of the memorable cat bus from their classic 1988 film "My Neighbor Totoro") are a joy. In one room young children are allowed to climb inside (and on top of if they wish!) the bus, whilst in the other their parents can sit, in slightly a more refined, dare one say 'adult' manner, inside a sectional mock up of the orange-furred vehicle.
There's a cute, small cinema inside showing short films that are apparently exclusively shown at the cinema. We caught "Chuzumo" (or Mouse Sumo!) which was perfect having only just seen the real thing for the first time the day before. A funny film that sumo fans would appreciate for its attention to detail on the trappings of the ceremony around the sport.
Personal highlight for me though was a life-sized state of one of the robots from "Laputa: Castle In The Sky" - possibly my favourite Miyazaki-directed Ghibli film (and the studio's first in 1986). This stands guard atop a garden on the roof of the museum, which is accessible through another of those spiral metal staircases. Fortunately, the weather on the day we visited was perfect Japanese winter weather - that is bright sunshine, blue skies and chilly. I couldn't resist having my photo taken below the protective giant. Even the often reluctant wife Yuko posed for a commorative snapshot. It also looks great from the exit gates of teh museum where it can be viewed as perhaps best intended - like a sentinal watching over - as in the film.
The first room accessible from the entrance is also worthy of special mention as it is a fine example of the entire museum's genuine love of the magical potential for film and indeed of the mechanics of the artform itself. In a darkened gallery you can see (among other exhibits) zeotropes, a stroboscope and 35mm film running through a clear projector showing film clips and a short 'history of evolution' animation by the studio. Even very young children seemed captivated by the exhibits in this room. Only the volume of visitors in the room at the time we visited was a detraction from lingering longer than we did.
If you're thinking of going its necessary to plan in advance due to the demand for tickets. To the museum's credit, they ration tickets each day and (like the extremely popular exhibitions at more conventional big-city art galleries) tickets only permit access during a fix two hour (I think it was) time window. So, don't be late - or you'll be politely advised (as only the Japanese can do) that you have most unfortunately missed your opportunity. Curiously, buying tickets to the Ghibli Museum from outside Japan is easier than inside the country. Outside you should be able to get through travel agents on request (you'll have to specify your preferred date and time). Alternatively, if you live in Japan, or do as we did and ask willing relatives to assist you, you'll need to book and then arrange to collect your tickets from a Lawson (convenience) store. If you too have helpful relatives resident in Japan then they can then also post you the tickets in advance of leaving your home country so that you have them with you on arrival in Tokyo if your relatives don't live in the city. ;-)
Those expecting a Disneyland or Universal Studios scale site should be forewarned, as it isn't huge; but what it lacks in size it balances out with charm and, yes, magic. The setting helps - on the edge of a woodland (Mitaka Forest) and the design, by Studio Ghibli founder (and director of many of their classic films) Hayao Miyazaki, both ensuring that even the most tired parent (or child!) should perk up immediately upon first glimpsing it.
The museum's motto is "Let's become lost children together" and only the stoniest of heart could fail to feel a child-like sense of adventure, exploration, fascination or event excitement at times when travelling through the place. The museum prides itself on there being no set route to seeing the exhibits (something even more exceptional here in Japan than elsewhere) and as you step over the threshold, you enter what looks like a wealthy eccentric's quirky mansion. There is a main 'reception' room with doors and tunnels, a spiral staircase and a Victorian-style see-through elevator all tempting you to explore. Which we did - with some glee I might add!
Permanent and changing exhibitions celebrate all films Ghibli and one of the current temporary ones - the Cat Bus rooms (featuring a full-sized version of the memorable cat bus from their classic 1988 film "My Neighbor Totoro") are a joy. In one room young children are allowed to climb inside (and on top of if they wish!) the bus, whilst in the other their parents can sit, in slightly a more refined, dare one say 'adult' manner, inside a sectional mock up of the orange-furred vehicle.
There's a cute, small cinema inside showing short films that are apparently exclusively shown at the cinema. We caught "Chuzumo" (or Mouse Sumo!) which was perfect having only just seen the real thing for the first time the day before. A funny film that sumo fans would appreciate for its attention to detail on the trappings of the ceremony around the sport.
Personal highlight for me though was a life-sized state of one of the robots from "Laputa: Castle In The Sky" - possibly my favourite Miyazaki-directed Ghibli film (and the studio's first in 1986). This stands guard atop a garden on the roof of the museum, which is accessible through another of those spiral metal staircases. Fortunately, the weather on the day we visited was perfect Japanese winter weather - that is bright sunshine, blue skies and chilly. I couldn't resist having my photo taken below the protective giant. Even the often reluctant wife Yuko posed for a commorative snapshot. It also looks great from the exit gates of teh museum where it can be viewed as perhaps best intended - like a sentinal watching over - as in the film.
The first room accessible from the entrance is also worthy of special mention as it is a fine example of the entire museum's genuine love of the magical potential for film and indeed of the mechanics of the artform itself. In a darkened gallery you can see (among other exhibits) zeotropes, a stroboscope and 35mm film running through a clear projector showing film clips and a short 'history of evolution' animation by the studio. Even very young children seemed captivated by the exhibits in this room. Only the volume of visitors in the room at the time we visited was a detraction from lingering longer than we did.
If you're thinking of going its necessary to plan in advance due to the demand for tickets. To the museum's credit, they ration tickets each day and (like the extremely popular exhibitions at more conventional big-city art galleries) tickets only permit access during a fix two hour (I think it was) time window. So, don't be late - or you'll be politely advised (as only the Japanese can do) that you have most unfortunately missed your opportunity. Curiously, buying tickets to the Ghibli Museum from outside Japan is easier than inside the country. Outside you should be able to get through travel agents on request (you'll have to specify your preferred date and time). Alternatively, if you live in Japan, or do as we did and ask willing relatives to assist you, you'll need to book and then arrange to collect your tickets from a Lawson (convenience) store. If you too have helpful relatives resident in Japan then they can then also post you the tickets in advance of leaving your home country so that you have them with you on arrival in Tokyo if your relatives don't live in the city. ;-)
Arrival & Sumo in Tokyo
Friday 13th (!) - For the first time in our travels to Japan, we decided to stop on arrival in Tokyo this time and do some stuff here for a few days before heading down to home in Kobe. We rented an apartment as a base in a quiet part of town. Took a stroll around the local neighbourhood on the first night and opted for izakaya - which did a superb pork steak in a delicious sauce.
Saturday 18th - Next morning we met up with a friend of ours who lives in Tokyo, and hung out for the morning not far from Ueno. Yuko and I then headed over to the Sumo stadium for the first basho of the year and my first ever sumo tournament. Surprising really, as I was a fan of sumo many years ago but we'd never managed to quite co-ordinate trips with the convenient timing of a basho. In the past the price and ticket availability has also been an issue, but with the recent decline in popularity, triggered in part by corruption in the sport and gaijin (foreigners) replacing the native Japanese in the higher ranks, seats are more readily available these days and at prices that are not to steep either.
We arrvied around 2:30pm just towards the end of the junior rank bouts. Walking up outside we were lucky enough to see a couple of the junior rankers strolling in their yukata away from the stadium (possibly off to grab some chanko nabe for lunch!). I managed to grab a quick video clip of them which I might try to post for others better versed to perhaps identify them. Snapped a obligatory photo with the current yellow bird sumo mascot, then took to our seats. Sat through the senior ranking wrestlers until the end of the day around 6:30pm. Although our seats were quite high up the view of the ring was fine. Using my camera I was able to get some decent photos and video clips too (when the three elderly ladies in the row in front of us weren't leaning forward and shouting for their favourites!). It was good fun but less exciting that if I knew who the wrestlers were these days! Would definitely go again, but would like to have followed a season or two before doing so to get the most out of the day.
Saturday 18th - Next morning we met up with a friend of ours who lives in Tokyo, and hung out for the morning not far from Ueno. Yuko and I then headed over to the Sumo stadium for the first basho of the year and my first ever sumo tournament. Surprising really, as I was a fan of sumo many years ago but we'd never managed to quite co-ordinate trips with the convenient timing of a basho. In the past the price and ticket availability has also been an issue, but with the recent decline in popularity, triggered in part by corruption in the sport and gaijin (foreigners) replacing the native Japanese in the higher ranks, seats are more readily available these days and at prices that are not to steep either.
We arrvied around 2:30pm just towards the end of the junior rank bouts. Walking up outside we were lucky enough to see a couple of the junior rankers strolling in their yukata away from the stadium (possibly off to grab some chanko nabe for lunch!). I managed to grab a quick video clip of them which I might try to post for others better versed to perhaps identify them. Snapped a obligatory photo with the current yellow bird sumo mascot, then took to our seats. Sat through the senior ranking wrestlers until the end of the day around 6:30pm. Although our seats were quite high up the view of the ring was fine. Using my camera I was able to get some decent photos and video clips too (when the three elderly ladies in the row in front of us weren't leaning forward and shouting for their favourites!). It was good fun but less exciting that if I knew who the wrestlers were these days! Would definitely go again, but would like to have followed a season or two before doing so to get the most out of the day.
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